Blackadders Scratchbuilt Titan projects..................

    Ahhhh... excelent thought.... Then add some radial dispersion pattern from the center and definetly some crater there.... That is a great idea and concept..

    A belated thanks for the reply.......... :blush:


    Shadowsword Interior:


    Found these images in my copious archives showing the generators for the Volcano Cannon. I much regret not researching this before as the interior would go very well in the Warlord engine room. I at the time coveted with my tongue hanging out the Shadowsword interior which in retrospect, now that I have a bit of scratchbuilding under my belt, would be relatively easy to replicate.






    Watch for a major revamp of the Warlord interior coming soon.


    I had completely omitted the Steam Turbine dynamos GAHHH!



    I like this one............

    "It is easier to deceive people than it is to convince them that they have been deceived."

    The Day The Earth Stood Still:


    Well maybe not such a world shaking event but never the less something that I would say about 50% of the replies I get are queries when I'm going to paint the Warlord.


    http://i.imgur.com/UsQnzAo.jpg


    Well today's the day


    http://i.imgur.com/yflJ1sb.jpg


    Another thing to note is the ankle mechanism is still intact with not a hint of failing either in structure and function so the fears of those that predicted the flexing ankles would fail are pretty much allayed.


    http://i.imgur.com/s73wBoK.jpg


    The difference between an engineer and yer average schlub is the schlub usually overbuilds........ I overbuild.


    So 24 hours of paint drying and I'll be ready to start airbrushing.


    BTW any painters out there I would appreciate suggestions......REALLY!

    "It is easier to deceive people than it is to convince them that they have been deceived."

    Can Someone Help Me Find My Dog?


    In the land of the blind the one eyed are kings. Well that philosophy won't do me any good 'cause my dog is blind too.


    I spent the morning reviewing youtube mech painting and I have come to the conclusion that it seems no one has trod this path before.


    So I went back to a few Jaro tutorials and decided to work off of the Forgefiend video.


    His accent is a bit thick but I got AV German Grey and I have to assume it's Model Air


    Yesterday I forego-ed his recommended acrylic black base coat because I don't have to spend 20 buck$ on tiny vials of black paint when I can paint the entire Warlord for a couple of dollars worth of generic spray can Flat Black.


    Today I airbrushed German Grey center highlights on the toes and tread patterns and the Ad Mech lcon under the foot pad???? (What Was I Thinking!!!!)


    http://i.imgur.com/VIplvOj.jpg


    Okay so the effect I'm going for is that originally this titan was a steely grey-blue and over the millennia the original factory paint and clear coat has worn, burned and rusted off so all that's left is a hint of former colour showing through the accumulated grime, leaking oil and rust. It won't be a Dave Smith camouflage so much as an Earl Scheib $19.95 special (Ask your fathers).

    "It is easier to deceive people than it is to convince them that they have been deceived."

    Department of the Interior:


    More like the Department of Redundancy Department because I had already done this once but I was never satisfied with the Holo-dome display, first it was too large and the ground looked fake and uninspired so a new attempt was in order and I just returned from my daily 10K walk brimming with new ideas for the cockpit interior as well.


    The new dome is neater and more compact.


    First I repaired the head and added the flex conduit, I plan to paint the mechanical sections later today probably black metallic and bronze highlights


    http://i.imgur.com/Npp5rqC.jpg


    Next the interior cockpit forward console (Lower left foreground will be upgraded with wiring and conduit. and be ready to be installed with the twin Moderati pilots seated.


    I wonder what people that have lives do with their time?

    "It is easier to deceive people than it is to convince them that they have been deceived."

    Thanks,


    Princeps Are Lifers Anyway:


    When I was in the service we called career soldiers 'Lifers.' It's not too much of a stretch to make the leap to a 20 year man becoming a permanent fixture in a machine especially if there are the bonuses of virtual 'ahem' amenities.


    That's why I have no qualms with using a truncated Princep. This wiry bilateral amputee is wedded to the machine god and tied in for the duration. The virtual R&R may be sufficient compensation to commit to such a sacrifice and of course there is free medical.


    http://i.imgur.com/ned4seG.jpg



    http://i.imgur.com/QH3GN6j.jpg


    Anyway it's an interesting deviation.

    "It is easier to deceive people than it is to convince them that they have been deceived."

    Einmal editiert, zuletzt von Blackadderz ()

    Cockpit Layout:


    Yes I know, I should let a pro painter do this detail. (Thought I'd get this in before anyone else says it........)


    So the Princep and the Moderati seem to fit well into the cockpit There is even room for a Tech Priest attendant should I choose to go that route. I like the 40K clutter better than the sterile military look so now that I have the occupants I can start adding the conduits, screens and cryptic paraphernalia one usually sees in 40K vehicles.


    http://i.imgur.com/ZbqeBbp.jpg


    I like that the cockpit is confined rather than the wide open empty spaces that is seen in most 40K interiors. Having seen most jet cockpits there is usually no room for the amenities and just for the pilots to get in and out of their seats requires a bit of body english gymnastics especially for the older overweight pilots.


    http://i.imgur.com/u89pL0G.jpg


    This cockpit in fact is rather spacious right now so there's plenty of room for all those esoteric goodies so beloved by the GW/FW gang.


    http://i.imgur.com/LlWDHIF.jpg

    "It is easier to deceive people than it is to convince them that they have been deceived."

    Blackadder Bass Ackwards:


    You would think that as often as I have shot myself in the foot I would learn from my mistakes but I continually do the same stupid thing namely building a tiny space and then build something inside that tiny space.


    Today the dashboard. I have always had it in mind to have a wraparound forward dashboard but instead of building the head around the interior detail I opted, and mind you I did this fully aware of what I intended to do, to build the outside and then build the interior detail.


    http://i.imgur.com/jLWbbhP.jpg


    Anyway the dashboard fits rather well considering and I hope I remember to finish the lighted control panels before they are glued in permanently!


    Not too happy with the black metallic paint on the back of the chairs.


    http://i.imgur.com/PSL5UDj.jpg


    These Sentinel pilots don't make half-bad Moderati.


    http://i.imgur.com/UBRj48e.jpg

    "It is easier to deceive people than it is to convince them that they have been deceived."

    Then and Now:


    Back when I was young, i.e. before computers; I had this idea of getting images of instruments and pasting them inside of model planes for realistic cockpit displays so perusing catalogs and magazines I came up with a few usable images etc...


    Well long story short they were too big, or too small, too dark, too light and ultimately I gave up the idea.


    But this morning in the course of mebbe half an hour I searched, photoshopped and printed superb instruments for the Warlord cockpit.


    What an amazing age we are privileged to live in.



    http://i.imgur.com/dr8Putx.jpg

    "It is easier to deceive people than it is to convince them that they have been deceived."

    Paper or Plastic:


    The paper gauges seem to work okay; definitely better than I can paint them I was going to light them from behind but I don't think that will be necessary besides the lighting will augment the discrepancies. We don't need that.


    Once the glue is dried I'll trim the gauges better, right now they seem a bit crude.


    http://i.imgur.com/QlPje8I.jpg



    http://i.imgur.com/CFDTtDt.jpg



    http://i.imgur.com/Q2LF8Ik.jpg

    "It is easier to deceive people than it is to convince them that they have been deceived."

    Thank God For CoD:


    I've never actually built a CoD module but over the course of couple of years I have cannibalized three Manufactorums and I still have enough parts to build at least two and a half. Clearly GW should offer the sculpted bitz instead of the cubical partitions but I'm not complaining.


    Right now I am decorating the walls of the cockpit with machiney looking bitz that serve no function other than to clutter up the bare walls.



    I figure this thing is like a Christmas tree, and you can't have too many ornaments on a Christmas tree.


    http://i.imgur.com/8eOjfjw.jpg


    Until the branches snap.


    http://i.imgur.com/l6EpKa4.jpg

    "It is easier to deceive people than it is to convince them that they have been deceived."

    How It Was Done:


    I received a few posts inquiring how I did the paper appliques.


    It's a pity I did not refine the technique I should have practiced more before applying it to my best model. but the process remains viable even though the initial results were crude. Were I to do it over I would have used thinner paper.


    Although the procedure seems complicate when read it really requires but a few seconds to implement in actual fact.


    I use a mixture of about 50/50 Testors model cement (the toxic stuff in the red tube) and Ambroid ProWeld but any thin plastic solvent cement will do. The solvent thins the Testors so the glue permeates the paper ostensibly turning the paper to plastic. A small drop spread evenly over the plastic surface is all that is needed then apply the paper and press in place with your finger until the glue sets the heat of your finger speeds the drying of the glue and forces the liquid into the paper fibers; about half a minute is more than enough time. The paper readily takes the shape of the plastic lens and that's it.


    Once the applique is fully dry trim off the excess with a razor blade or Xacto knife and apply a finish coat of solvent to further penetrate the paper.and seal the edge.


    I finished the lens applique with a light coat of acrylic varnish.


    Hint on working with extremely tiny bits of paper and plastic such as rivets.


    Use your Xacto #11 tip



    to impale the 'bit'; just a touch is required if the blade is quite new. That way it is easy to pick up and move tiny bits to the gluing site and apply exacting pressure to hold them in place until the glue sets.

    "It is easier to deceive people than it is to convince them that they have been deceived."

    More of the Same:


    Jeez Blackadder enough already.


    I'm sorry to post so many updates on virtually the same thing but I put a lot of effort into the cockpit and it would be a shame to not show the finished product.


    Wait Blackadder you mean to say the interior will be Black?


    Well no but as it stand right now perhaps so grey highlights scuffs on the walkways and probably painting the buttons.


    Besides, 'Red October' had a black interior and that looked kinda cool. The beige US sub interior Meh, not so much.


    So in true Burlesque fashion we'll take it down; cue the music......


    http://www.soundboard.com/sb/Burlesque_Can_Can_Music


    http://i.imgur.com/XGtTNCQ.jpg


    http://i.imgur.com/MQwsQHm.jpg


    http://i.imgur.com/ihG8bMi.jpg


    http://i.imgur.com/52SQfsK.jpg


    http://i.imgur.com/BoGrZrc.jpg


    http://i.imgur.com/xk13cZG.jpg

    "It is easier to deceive people than it is to convince them that they have been deceived."

    Well At Least I've Moved On:


    Today's update is rather small but at least I've moved on to a different section of the interior.


    The down side is I spent my full allotted building time to painting the Adeptus Mechanicus altar.


    http://i.imgur.com/0MrPE9M.jpg


    Since the entire interior at this moment is flat black I used a flash but the flash washed out the varied shades of metallic paint applied.


    Next, the Tech Priest.

    "It is easier to deceive people than it is to convince them that they have been deceived."

    Bringing You a Better Warlord Since the Advent of the 21st Century:


    In the 2 plus years I have been working on this project one of the items I have been less than enthused about was the wimpy primary weapons stanchions so today I addressed that issue with a beefier stanchion and a re-engineered rotating base.


    Sometimes you just have to bite the bullet and purchase a 'made' item that fulfills the desired requirements and is compact enough to be practical, for this application anyway.


    The Panduit universal couplings are relatively expensive and totally impractical for their intended purpose since they invariably fatigue and crack more readily than comparable metal connections. Still they do have a businesslike appearance for my particular purposes. They swivel 360° and with the new mount assembly I came up with allow the guns to rotate easier with less stress on the shoulder mount.


    http://i.imgur.com/8UTe8FC.jpg


    I skipped the 3/4 inch mount and went directly to the 1 inch mount doubling the diameter of the stanchion and trebling the mass.


    http://i.imgur.com/XIZoBO5.jpg


    At last Biceps that would do Hemsworth proud.

    "It is easier to deceive people than it is to convince them that they have been deceived."

    Still Practicing!


    Close to three years into these various projects and I still have to practice making components.


    No one has ever asked what the cutouts in the engineering and the command deck


    http://i.imgur.com/Dk8UXkD.jpg


    They are suppose to be observation ports to view the weapons, ground defense and monitor the legs.


    Anyway I need to practice welding the clear styrene and this was my first attempt.


    One problem is the glue runs everywhere it's not suppose to but doesn't dissolve the clear panels quickly or strongly enough. Also the clear styrene is much more brittle than the plain white sheets.


    Below the cooling radiators for the nuclear fusion fluid and the interior of the reactor bay panels are the first to receive paint. I have always thought the radiator cores should be copper or brass in colour and it's a good place to practice how I am going to paint the mechanical parts of the titan...........



    http://i.imgur.com/AIYtyfh.jpg

    "It is easier to deceive people than it is to convince them that they have been deceived."

    Idée Fixe :


    Many thanks for all the suggestions, in point of fact I have considered each previously which is why I have left this project to last. Vacuum-formed packets were my first consideration but the shape I wanted has not been forthcoming in spite of a three year quest plus they are not styrene glue compatible.


    I have always had in mind a faceted shaped window and nothing less than styrene would do.


    Utilizing my prototype for a form I cut and glued the first interstice after beveling the fine edges.


    http://i.imgur.com/iT1VEhJ.jpg


    Using a 50/50 mix of Testor's model cement (Red Label) and Ambroid ProWeld solvent; the former for viscosity and the latter for penetration and strength I applied a thin bead to both panes and set aside to dry.


    http://i.imgur.com/Euj8rQ5.jpg


    Tenting the dried panels on the form I am ready to sand the end facet beveled edges.


    http://i.imgur.com/Hf4ms3o.jpg

    "It is easier to deceive people than it is to convince them that they have been deceived."

    Self-Taught Tutorial:


    While we are on the subject of making windows this is a good opportunity to demonstrate how I cut clear styrene.


    Clear styrene is rather more brittle than white styrene so you can save yourself a lot of grief by not trying to cut around corners or curves, chances are the sheet will shatter and always in the wrong way.


    Plan your work and cut only straight cuts; this may seem wasteful but much less so than failed angled or curved cuts.


    First I measured the width of the strip I required; in this case 17 MM.


    I scratched a small marker where I wanted the cut to be:


    http://i.imgur.com/BGEmQY5.jpg


    Employing my utility knife and a fairly accurate combination square I scored a fine line on the surface of the clear styrene. I would suggest a hard surface and not a foam cutting mat as shown here but the cutting mat shows the scored line better.


    http://i.imgur.com/B8RsdlW.jpg


    Once you have the scored line, you can either remove the square or chance deepening the score with repeated passes with the knife but bear in mind that each pass increases the possibility of slipping or cracking the styrene.


    I removed the square after the second pass and then after relied on the depth of the score to keep the knife from slipping.


    I made half a dozen more passes until the score was deep enough to attempt snapping the line.


    Try to snap the line gently and evenly apply pressure along the length of the cut instead of a localized point.


    If it seems you need undue pressure score the line deeper rather than applying more pressure which could shatter the sheet.


    http://i.imgur.com/e2268W3.jpg


    The result is a cleanly cut strip.

    "It is easier to deceive people than it is to convince them that they have been deceived."